A tale of two tables
- Rosie Cattrell
- Apr 30
- 5 min read
Updated: May 1
Words by Rosie Cattrell
At the heart of Cornwall’s gastronomic landscape lie two hotels, each with a unique culinary offering that highlights the very best of the region’s finest ingredients.
It’s well understood that Cornwall’s opal waters and sun-kissed summer landscapes draw visitors from around the world every year. Endless days exploring secret trails and sand-strewn beaches, the glitter of blue saltwater tempting bare toes, is a daydream that often drifts into focus when Kernow comes to mind. Cobbled streets lined with unique local businesses provide fresh reflections of an ever-irresistible human curiosity. Luxurious spaces in which to lay your head afford moments of feeling like this could be home. But, at the heart of it all awaits an eye-opening gastronomic landscape that is sure to leave a lasting impression on those who know where to look.
One such encounter lies in wait on the very edge of the River Fal, overlooking the tranquil harbour scenes of Falmouth. Under the expert gaze of the Cornwall Hotel Collection, The Greenbank’s historic riverine setting and lavish harbourside rooms come perfectly paired with a wonderfully immersive Cornish culinary experience.
Inspired by an ever-changing larder of fresh local produce, the hotel’s aptly named Water’s Edge restaurant invites guests and visitors to take a seat at the table for a little taste of Cornwall. In a place where simplicity is not mistaken for the mundane, Head Chef Bobby Southworth, alongside Executive Chef Nick Hodges, has his finger firmly on the pulse when it comes to seasonal flavours, and his reputation for subtle combinations is reflected in carefully considered menus, each made to showcase the very best of what’s available nearby. “We like to lean into ingredients that are naturally available at the time,” Bobby explains, “seeking out flavours that reflect the seasons – think classic dishes with a twist, built with ingredients that complement each other.”
Cornish seafood freshly plucked from local waters is often the star of this show, and what could be a better setting to experience it as the river eases gently by? Bobby’s latest menu features the subtle sweetness of grilled scallops and the rich, creamy familiarity of moules marinière, best paired with a sip of chilled white wine and a salty sea breeze from a seat on the terrace. Curry roasted monkfish, crisp fish and chips, and the always popular catch of the day are each perfect examples of Cornwall’s wonderful ocean bounty.
Locally reared meat is also given a spotlight in the Water’s Edge, from confit pork belly and lamb with wild garlic, to a classic fillet steak cooked bespoke to your liking, with fresh vegetables from across the river to round it all off. Luxurious afternoon teas crafted by in-house Pastry Chef Aaron Rawlings afford a moment of decadence, and the ‘Dessert’s On Us’ offer means a two-course lunch is served Monday to Saturday for £24 with a free sweet treat – accompanied, as always, by first-class service and an endless coastal vista.
Cornish born and raised, Bobby’s face is well known in these parts, and his sell-out ‘Bobby’s Taste of Cornwall’ events have become a must-attend occasion for many. “These are my favourite events to do,” he continues. “I get to spend a whole evening with my guests and share what I love doing with them. It’s about showcasing what we can do here in Cornwall with the ingredients that we’re so lucky to have around us. That’s what it’s all about – I just love talking about food!”
Just half an hour away, in a hidden hillside location in the heart of Truro, another of the Cornwall Hotel Collection’s historic hotels harbours its very own foodie experience. Shrouded from the hustle and bustle of Cornwall’s own cathedral city by ancient trees and fairy-tale grounds, The Alverton’s original Grade II-listed architecture dates as far back as 1830. Now a luxury hotel, an old-world charm and a sense of romance roams free about the gardens here, with a sweeping sun-trap terrace made for leisurely moments with a glass of something cool and crisp.
A renowned culinary offering under the guidance of Nick Hodges and Head Chef Ollie Wyatt calls guests and locals alike to take a seat in the garden-view restaurant. With fine regional food at the heart of it all, the menus at The Alverton, much like the Water’s Edge, are crafted around celebrating good Cornish ingredients from local suppliers. “We like to try and keep things as simple as possible,” Ollie shares, “whilst playing on the incredible natural flavours that we’re afforded living here in Cornwall. While everything on your plate is carefully considered, we like to take the fuss and pomp away from the food, so all that’s left is incredible flavours that speak for themselves.”
From smoked mackerel pâté and caramelised pear and goat’s cheese ravioli to marmalade glazed gammon, slow-cooked beef bourguignon, and coconut laksa with fresh white fish and prawns, Ollie’s latest menu is brimming with seasonal flavours. With their own indulgent edition to bring to the table, an Alverton afternoon tea experience is one that comes with quiet garden ambience and a feeling of laid-back civility.
Not one to shy away from a spot of al-fresco cooking, you’ll often find Ollie barbequing out on the terrace on Friday evenings throughout the summer, the rich smoky scents of grilling meats, fish and veggies tempting all tastebuds nearby.
And no summer at The Alverton would be complete without its famed Lobster on the Lawn event. Friday 13th June will see a true celebration of Cornish seafood take place in the form of a lobster feast with all the trimmings, served on the sun-dappled terrace with a glass of bubbles.
Another date for any foodie’s diary is Ollie’s ‘Hedgerow and Field’ Taste of Truro evening on Thursday 19th June. In a showcase of all things veggie, this intimate tasting evening will cast a spotlight on Cornwall’s abundant natural larder. From earthy purple-pink beetroot and nutty, sweet celeriac, to powerful mint and tart gooseberries, each plant’s unique flavour properties are appreciated and thoughtfully cooked to extract the very best from each local ingredient. “It’s events like these that mean I can really throw myself into my menus and spend some time interacting with my guests,” Ollie admits. “I can get a real understanding of everyone’s tastes and let them into my world of flavours and combinations.”
From the quiet tranquillity of The Greenbank’s sheltered waters to the enchanting seclusion of The Alverton’s secret city oasis, it only takes one moment from the seat of a restaurant table to uncover a culinary revelation that was never really a secret at all, once you know where to look.
Head to the hotel websites for more information and to secure your seat at the table, whether you’re booking in for one of the culinary events taking place throughout the year, or making a reservation for lunch, dinner or afternoon tea.
