A true taste of the island
- Hannah Tapping
- May 1
- 4 min read
Words by Hannah Tapping
The reinvention of an afternoon classic on St Michael’s Mount is receiving much acclaim.
Standing sentinel in Mount’s Bay, all eyes are drawn to an iconic castle and medieval church sat atop a rocky island, joined only to the mainland by a cobbled causeway. It marks the final step in St Michael’s Way, Cornwall’s section of the Santiago de Compostela Pilgrim Way and is steeped in history and Cornish legend. The modern St Michael’s Mount remains the home of the St Aubyn family and has a thriving harbourside village island community. This ancient tidal island attracts visitors from near and far, who make their way along the cobbled causeway at low water, or by ferry boat when the tide is high. While the Mount’s ancient architecture, sub-tropical gardens and art collections have long been a draw to visitors, it has a new allure and this time, it’s a reimagining of a culinary classic.
Taking inspiration from the island itself, combined with a tradition said to have been invented by the seventh Duchess of Bedford, Anna Maria Russell sometime around 1840, the Mount’s restaurant, The Harbour Loft, serves an afternoon tea that is so unique, so bursting with the flavour of the place, that seasoned food writer Martin Hesp recently mooted it to be “the best afternoon tea in the region, if not the country!”
Afternoon tea at The Harbour Loft is a love letter to the island’s natural larder and the brainchild of Head Chef Greg Milne, whose culinary story is anything but conventional. A former lead singer in a heavy metal band and National Trust warden, Greg now channels his creativity into crafting one of the most innovative afternoon teas on the scene. With a passion for foraging wild ingredients, seafood, French cuisine and patisserie, Greg brings new sensory dimensions to this fine tradition; the tiered plates are a feast for the eyes, the freshly baked scones smell more than divine and each bite delivers a taste sensation. “When we were first conceptualising the afternoon tea offering, I knew it had to resonate with St Michael’s Mount and truly embody the essence of the island,” explains Greg, “I began by mapping all the edible flora I could find on the island, using that as a compass to guide the creative process – working backwards from the flavours of St Michael’s Mount.”
Served from April to October, here, you’ll find melt-in-the-mouth tartlets filled with smoked Cornish mackerel, beetroot and chervil tartlet, or a delicate combination of whipped ricotta and nettle choux. Crustless sandwiches take a wild turn – think hogs pudding, rosemary and cranberry; goat’s cheese, mushroom and thyme; Cornhill egg and devilled spices. “The menu almost always begins with what we’re able to forage in that season – it starts with the flavours of the landscape. From there, it becomes a creative process of weaving those ingredients through the menu in ways that are both interesting and delicious,” adds Greg.
And then there are the sweet treats. Pine and rose mousse cakes, and walnut, malted chocolate and nutmeg financier are a precursor to a sour blackberry and cinnamon chiffon. The scents are akin to the work of the finest perfumier, the confections are miniature works of art in themselves. Every element on the plate nods to the seasons, the setting and Greg’s devotion to flavour and originality: “We wanted to give people a real taste of the island,” Greg explains. “Not just the food, but the feeling – that connection to nature, to the seasons. You can taste the salt in the mackerel, smell the pine in the mousse. It’s all right here.”
ABOVE A feast for the senses
“The flavours of St Michael’s Mount evolve as the seasons unfold, which is why we adapt the menu accordingly. Some elements remain constant – for example, the Japanese white pine we use for the pine and rose mousse cake. In spring, it has a fresh, citrusy brightness, while by autumn it develops a deeper, more resinous intensity. These natural variances only enhance the seasonal nature of the menu.”
Of course, house-baked scones are unashamedly served with lashings of Trewithen Dairy clotted cream and Cornish strawberry jam, accompanied by a pot of Tregothnan tea. Such is the occasion, one might be tempted to raise a glass of local sparkling wine in honour of such a plateful of delights.
The list of local ingredients is intentional, as Greg explains: “Sourcing locally is absolutely paramount. It ensures minimal environmental impact, reduces food miles, supports the local economy, and allows us to tell meaningful stories through the food we serve.” Where Greg can source from Cornish shores or fields he will and there’s endless opportunity to delve into the Mount’s own larder of beet, borage, buck’s horn plantain, Japanese white pine, rock samphire, rosa rugosa, saltbush vetch, sea sorrel and wild leek. “When conceiving the menu for afternoon tea, I’m obsessed with layering flavours found on the Mount, both savoury and sweet, limiting myself (not exclusively) to foraged elements you can find on the island.”
The Harbour Loft afternoon tea has become something of a foodie pilgrimage. Word of mouth, glowing write-ups and a social media buzz — not least from the many visitors who can’t resist Instagramming their tiered trays of forest-green mousse cakes and dainty tartlets – have helped secure its status as one of the UK’s most exciting afternoon tea experiences. At £37.50 per person (with vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options available) this is a luxury experience that’s surprisingly accessible. There’s also a special children’s afternoon tea, at £17.50, that includes sandwiches, cakes and a drink, plus a giant’s heart jelly!
ABOVE Creating culinary artistry
The menu evolves with the months. Spring brings nettles and three-cornered leeks, summer highlights vibrant berries and floral notes, while autumn introduces deeper, richer tones. This is a rare kind of immersion. You’re not just dining – you’re engaging with a culinary narrative that reflects the rhythms of tide and time, of local community and wild harvest. “A sense of place is arguably the most important aspect of the afternoon tea experience at the Harbour Loft. Our unique offering is rooted in a strong connection to time and place. Every element is designed to reflect the bounty and beauty of St Michael’s Mount, Mount’s Bay, and Cornwall – evolving with the seasons,” concludes Greg. It’s a menu that breathes with the island – never static, always alive.
