Words by Dan Warden
If only for a short while, it’s nice to know that there is a place in which to hang our hats and hide away from the world.
Dating back to the 12th century, the Victoria Inn lies at the heart of the quiet coastal village of Perranuthnoe, just a mile and a half from Marazion, and mere moments from the South West Coast Path. As inns go, it has to be one of the best placed in the area for those looking to explore the best of west Cornwall, and despite its proximity to the south coast, it lies only a short drive from its rugged northern counterpart.
A warm welcome awaits
A delicate balance of flavour and seasonality
Over the years, ‘Team Vic’ have established a reputation for award-winning food, good local ales, fine wines and proper Cornish ciders, winning coveted awards that include Gold in Taste of the West’s Dining Pub category. This is also a place for weary travellers to hang their hats, with three gorgeous en-suite rooms available for bed and breakfast. With all of this in mind, and after much turmoil since the onset of the pandemic, with many hospitality businesses struggling stay afloat, we were delighted to hear that the Victoria’s bar was once again stocked and the kitchen ready to go with a brand-new menu. We were even more pleased to be invited to the re-opening night in May this year and, as we filed in, took our seats and began to peruse the menu – our interest already piqued by the smells drifting from the kitchen – it was clear that we were in for a good evening.
Peruse the Vic’s excellent wine list
Why not make a night of it?
Utilising the excellent wealth of local produce that comes with the turning of the seasons here in Cornwall – and paired with an exceptional list of wines – the starters soon began to arrive. From the Roasted Spiced Cauliflower Salad (our personal favourite, with pomegranate, basil and a hot tahini dressing) to the Mussels, which were served in a garlic, white wine and clotted cream sauce, with spring onions and crusty bread; from the Arancini, to the Pan-Seared Scallops (presented whole, with samphire, spring onions, capers, and a saffron and cream sauce), each was simply sublime. Pairing these with a crisp, well-chilled bottle of Clos de l’Eglise Macon Charnay, we were well and truly primed for the main course to come.
Between us, we opted for the chicken, pork, lemon sole and the risotto – descriptions that by no means do these dishes justice. The chicken – wrapped in crispy serrano ham and stuffed with tomato and spinach – was absolutely divine, as was the Lemon Sole, presented with lemon gremolata and Cornish ‘earlies’. The cider-poached Primrose Pork Belly, paired with Cornish veg, a celeriac and sage purée, and a decadently sticky port and orange sauce also impressed, as did the Summer Vegetable Risotto, which provided a delicate balance of flavour and texture, thanks to its pairing with parmesan and crispy onions.
Each plate brings with it a unique taste of Cornwall
Rounding off the meal with two Lime and Strawberry Crème Brûlées and a very generous cheese board, it wasn’t long before we found ourselves drawn to our accommodation upstairs. Beautifully decorated and the perfect level of ‘cosy’ after a day spent by the sea, the bedrooms at the Victoria Inn are both welcoming and unique; each feels boutique by design, and we could easily imagine whiling away a few evenings here after exploring the best of west Cornwall.
Lying just moments from the sea, with an ethos that champions great food and service to match, the 12th century Victoria Inn is a safe port in any storm – a welcome respite for those hoping to escape an increasingly busy world.