Outdoor communal feasting
- Jamie Crocker
- May 1
- 2 min read
Words by Jamie Crocker
Enter a world where nine generations have tended the land in rural Cornwall.
In a quiet valley just minutes from Truro, Nancarrow Farm invites visitors down a long track lined with centuries-old oaks, offering glimpses of gardens, orchards and livestock before revealing its historic stone barns. Since 1782, this 100-acre farm has been lovingly tended by the same family, who now blend organic food production with exceptional dining experiences.
The journey to Nancarrow feels like stepping away from modern pressures into a bygone age – this is a landscape that has been thoughtfully managed for generations. The farm’s connection to its customers stretches back decades; before opening their dining barns in 2014, the family sold their produce at local farmers’ markets, establishing a tradition of direct consumer relationships that continues today.
At the heart of the Nancarrow experience is the courtyard, transformed from a practical farm space into “a magical spot, steeped in history.” The courtyard dining area centres around a wood-fired kitchen where guests can watch chefs at work, creating what really can be described as culinary theatre – the visual spectacle of food preparation combined with enticing aromas over slow-burning oak and home-made charcoal.
“The courtyard set up exposes us in a good way,” explains head chef, Jack. “It’s a multi-purpose set-up, which might feature slow smouldering cuts of meat, ember roasted veg, grilled seafood or even woodfired pizzas, while our bread is baked in our bakery just before service and is allowed to rest in full view, so everybody can see it – pretty much everyone comes and has a look.”
Their native Red Devon cattle enjoy an idyllic life roaming between the farm and the nearby Penhale Dunes conservation project. When their time comes, they make their final journey to the farm’s on-site facility where the carefully selected cuts are dry-aged for up to 60 days in the butchery.
This transparency extends to their philosophy about ingredients. The team grow around two acres of fruit, veg and herbs each year. “The difference between something that’s picked fresh and put on the plate that day is incomparable,” notes farmer and partner, Steve. “The crunch of the lettuce or sweetness of a tomato is completely different.”
The cooking approach focuses on enhancing natural flavours rather than masking them. Using different stages of fire – from high flames for searing to gentle embers for slow cooking – allows ingredients to shine. Even simple produce like peas or tomatoes become headline attractions when gently smoked over the wood fire. Menus change with what’s growing in the gardens, orchards and hedgerows. Dishes are designed to be familiar but with thoughtful twists that reflect the surrounding landscape. During their monthly feasts, chefs talk diners through each course, explaining the journey from farm to plate.
This authentic attitude to sustainability arises naturally rather than serving as a marketing strategy. Solar panels, waste reduction and circular practices are adopted because, as Steve puts it, “When you hang up your boots at the end, you want to be proud of what you’ve accomplished.”
For visitors seeking genuine Cornish farm dining, Nancarrow offers not just excellent food but a connection to place, tradition and the rhythms of the rural calendar.
