A culinary evolution
- Jamie Crocker
- May 1
- 5 min read
Words by Jamie Crocker
Kota and Kota Kai are spaces of fluidity – where flavours and ideas merge, shift and suddenly evolve with ease.
Celebrating 20 years of culinary excellence, Kota has long been a cornerstone of Porthleven’s burgeoning food scene. Alongside its sister establishment, the 14-year-old Kota Kai, they have been instrumental in transforming Porthleven into a recognised culinary destination. Their enduring presence has helped elevate this once-quiet fishing village into a gastronomic hotspot that attracts visitors from across the United Kingdom and beyond.
After 14 years of operation, Kota Kai underwent a comprehensive rebrand and refurbishment that reflected the vision for its future. The addition of a wood-burning fire, a refreshed colour palette, a new bar and the removal of several walls have created an inviting, cosy space with distinct areas that elevate the dining experience.
The lounge room has been reimagined as an intimate dining area, available for private hire for groups of up to 30 people. With closable doors offering additional privacy, it’s an ideal setting for more personal gatherings, celebratory occasions, and special events. The long dining room, with its stunning harbour views, remains available for larger parties of up to 70 guests. The former end room has been transformed into a snug area centred around the wood-burning stove, providing seating for up to 30 people. The new colour scheme has elevated the restaurant to a more sophisticated space while maintaining the influence of the owner’s Asian-Maori heritage, creating a unique visual identity that sets Kota Kai apart from other establishments in the region. The culinary evolution of Kota Kai has been equally impressive, with the introduction of the Josper grill adding a distinctive smoky dimension to the menu. Beyond meat, the team grills fish, vegetables and virtually anything that benefits from this treatment, allowing them to create dishes with complex flavour profiles and a signature char that cannot be replicated with conventional cooking methods. A prime example is their Aji Rojo sauce, where tomatoes, red peppers, onions, garlic, and red chillies are blistered to absorb those characteristic BBQ flavours. The ingredients are then blended with smoked paprika, olive oil, coriander, sherry vinegar, and dried oregano to create a versatile sauce perfect for fish or vegetarian tacos. Even a simple grilled steak takes on new life when paired with their Asian green herb dressing, demonstrating how this specialised equipment has expanded the restaurant’s culinary capabilities and allowed the chefs to experiment with techniques that were previously beyond reach.
What distinguishes both Kota restaurants is the influence of the owner’s diverse background. His Māori heritage informs his passion for foraging and gathering – practices he grew up with, collecting mussels, clams, cockles, seaweeds, fish and crabs from the beach. This connection to the sea resonates deeply with their coastal location, fostering a genuine appreciation for sustainable sourcing and seasonal ingredients. Meanwhile, his Chinese-Malay ancestry manifests in subtle Asian twists throughout the menu, from the soy master stock in Kota’s pork cheek dish to the purely heritage-inspired Curry Laksa at Kota Kai. This cultural fusion creates a distinctive culinary identity that cannot be found elsewhere in Cornwall, offering diners a unique experience that transcends conventional British cuisine while still celebrating local ingredients.
This year marks Kota’s 20th anniversary. While the restaurant has evolved to remain relevant to contemporary dining preferences, it has maintained its signature Asian influences, creating a consistent thread that connects past and present iterations. Following February’s refurbishment, the team introduced a new menu format designed to accommodate changing dining habits and preferences. While the tasting menus remain for those seeking a comprehensive culinary journey, they’ve added snack and Pintxos options to complement the refreshed service style. The redesigned dining room with new furnishings feels more vibrant and facilitates greater interaction with guests – diners will often find the chefs personally delivering dishes to tables.
The upgraded bar area now accommodates an expanded wine selection, anticipating the launch of Kota’s wine shop in late spring. This new venture will allow customers to sample and purchase wines they might not otherwise encounter, focusing on small producers and sustainable viticulture practices. Later in the year, they’ll inaugurate the Kota Wine Club, hosting a series of winemaker and supplier dinners – an exciting new chapter for Kota that will further cement its reputation as a destination for oenophiles and food.
The aesthetic dimension of both establishments has been carefully considered, with artwork in both restaurants curated with intent. At Kota, they’ve collaborated with Maxine Greer, whose work adorns the walls and reflects the ingredients used in the kitchen. These pieces have become conversation starters and personalise the space, enhancing the dining experience through the interplay of art and menu. Similarly, the artists featured at Kota Kai – Zee’s porthole-shaped works, Felix’s lounge pieces, and Mickey’s photography – collectively capture the restaurant’s essence.
ABOVE Kota Kai
Kota Kai has recently welcomed Ryan Venning as Head Chef, bringing fresh experience and energy to the kitchen. Ryan and Jude are collaborating to evolve the menus while maintaining Kota Kai’s signature Asian flavours, working together to guide Kai into its new iteration while respecting its established identity. Meanwhile, at Kota, long-time colleague Ross Sloan has adapted to the post-refurbishment changes, embracing the more accessible menu format of smaller plates and snacks alongside a frequently changing six-course chef’s menu.
Community engagement has been a cornerstone of both restaurants’ ethos. The Porthleven Food Festival, which began in 2009, was conceived by Jude and friends to draw national attention to the area. The concept – a food and music festival celebrating Cornish culture and produce – has exceeded all expectations in its longevity and reception, growing from a small local event into a nationally recognised celebration that draws visitors from across the country. During the festival, both restaurants host special events: Kota Kai offers feasts on Friday and Saturday nights with DJs throughout the weekend, while Kota focuses on champagne and sparkling wines paired with seafood and vegetarian dishes (with options for meat enthusiasts as well). They also operate a Budvar bar outside the restaurant, adjacent to their outdoor dining area. The team eagerly anticipates welcoming chef colleagues who will join them and perform on the demonstration stage, sharing knowledge and techniques with festival attendees.
New Zealand and Cornwall share many culinary ingredients and approaches. The Cornish larder offers exceptional produce from both land and sea. The restaurants forage along the coast and in local woodlands, source from organic farms providing seasonal produce, work with local fishermen supplying the UK’s most diverse seafood selection, and partner with Warren’s Butchers.
The cocktail menu emerged from collaborative sessions with Chris Jarret and resident bar expert, Ash, focusing on flavours that would complement the food menu. The resulting cocktails have evolved significantly, with Ash continuing to develop exceptional new creations that are dangerously good. A complete bar refurbishment has enhanced their ability to produce these cocktails brilliantly and efficiently.
With Kota now in its 20th year and Kota Kai in its 14th, they’ve witnessed and contributed to Porthleven’s transformation. When Jude arrived in 2004, the town was relatively unknown to most visitors; 21 years later, it has become a recognised holiday and culinary destination, populated with establishments that collectively create a vibrant food scene. Following their recent refurbishments, the future looks bright for both as they continue their gastronomic journey in Porthleven, maintaining their position at the forefront of Cornwall’s dining.
