Authenticity, integrity and purpose
- Jamie Crocker
- May 1
- 3 min read
Words by Jamie Crocker
Where modern Indian cuisine encounters Cornwall’s finest seasonal produce in Penryn.
At the end of a river, you’ll find Penryn, and along its Commercial Road, is Situ – a place that has raised the bar in the world of café culture. The name, meaning ‘environment’ in Sanskrit, perfectly encapsulates what joint owners Sham and Alexa have created: a space where exceptional coffee, innovative cuisine and community connection merge to form an experience that you’d be hard-pushed to find this side of Bristol.
Situ’s story begins with two passionate individuals from different corners of Britain. Sham, originally from Leicester with Gujarati heritage (his parents having fled Uganda during Idi Amin’s regime), and Alexa, a native Cornishwoman, met while working in London’s hospitality scene. When they relocated to Cornwall in 2019, just before the pandemic, they started with a modest coffee van and hosted pop-ups and supper clubs. In 2023, they established their permanent base by taking over the former Origin warehouse in Penryn, transforming it into what they proudly describe as a ‘high speciality coffee shop.’
What distinguishes Situ from typical cafés is their commitment to quality sourcing. While the term ‘farm-to-table’ has become commonplace, Situ elevates this concept with extraordinary dedication. “Our nearest supplier is literally point three miles away,” Sham enthuses. “Only the muddy beach separates the back of our building from the slopes of their farm.” This proximity allows them to adapt their menu frequently based on what’s available – when the farmer mentions leeks are out of season, the menu changes accordingly.
The café balances casual dining with refined execution. Guests enjoy counter service in a clean, minimalist space with Scandinavian influences, but the food that arrives at their table reflects Sham’s culinary craftsmanship. His background as a chef, exposed early on to Gujarati cooking by his mother, informs Situ’s unique offering: modern Indian cuisine utilising Cornwall’s exceptional ingredients.
Perhaps most remarkable is their direct trade partnership with MV Spices, in Jodhpur, India, a female-led concern run by seven sisters who took over their late father’s spice company. “It’s important,” Sham emphasises, “because in India, it’s still a very male-dominated area, so we are supporting a business that is essentially making a change in a different economy.” This connection not only ensures authentic flavours but also aligns with Situ’s ethos of supporting progressive businesses.
Sustainability shapes every aspect of Situ’s operation. They have a nose-to-tail approach to sourcing meat, ensuring utilisation of the full carcass for their menu and events. They encourage a zero-waste mindset by promoting the use of re-usable cups and carry this practice through into the kitchen by making ingredients such as ricotta produced from excess steamed milk. These practices reflect their philosophy of building a business with authenticity, integrity and purpose.
Unlike many seasonal establishments that capitalise on Cornwall’s tourist influx before closing for winter, Situ remains open year-round, serving locals seven days a week. “We only close on Easter Sunday and between Christmas and New Year,” Sham notes. This consistency has fostered strong community bonds. Beyond serving exceptional food and drink, Situ creates space for cultural exchange.
They regularly host celebrations for Eid, Diwali and other cultural festivals, introducing Cornish residents to traditions from the Indian subcontinent. Sham can also be engaged for private dining at events, from weddings to birthday celebrations for a fully curated dining experience. “We’re enriching the local area with multicultural experiences,” Sham explains, bringing a slice of vibrant diversity to Cornwall.
The café also supports local talent by displaying team members’ artwork and crafts. They host the Shakeout Run Club on Saturday mornings and maintain a community notice board. These initiatives reflect Situ’s vision of being more than just a place to eat and drink; it serves as a gathering spot where people connect. And, for those seeking exceptional coffee, innovative cuisine, and genuine community spirit in Cornwall, it provides a distinctive environment where all three flourish together.
